Tecomate Lab Lab Plus Seed

Lime & Fertilizer based on Soil Sample

Spreading Tecomate Lab Lab Plus Seed

(Important to chose a seed that can do well in dry conditions, withstand early grazing, high in protien and do well in smaller food plot scenarios)

Spreading Lime & Fertilzer to raise PH and provide needed nutrients based on Soil Sample

Preparing Deer Fence to keep out of food plot for a few weeks.  Important especially for smaller food plots to allow seed to establish prior to heaving grazing.  Number of ways to do this, we chose P2 Deer Ribbon and Plot Saver Spray to keep deer out for first 2-4 weeks.

For more information visit our Archery Shop or if you need any Archery Equipment or Bowhunting Equipment.

Originally posted 2010-05-25 22:35:14. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Contributor to StickemArchery.com

As hunters we hear about the importance of providing high quality nutrition to deer herds to maximize both antler development and body size.  I get to see the impact of providing whitetails with High Quality Year Round Food Plots throughout the country.  No matter if you hunt 200 acres or 2,000 acres there are strategies you can implement to improve your current food plots.  As a fellow bowhunter I know the importance of being even more strategic with the type and placement of our food plots to maximize that opportunity to get a shot on a mature animal.  I have put together some of the more frequent questions and answers that I hope will help you obtain better results with your current food plots.

Question:

How big does your food plot need to be in relation to the total amount of property you hunt?

Answer:

To have positive impact on  your herd with food plots a minimum of 1% of the property must be devoted to High Quality Year Round Food Plots (HQYR), but I prefer much more serious management.  To determine the acreage of food plot for a property I determine the ratio of food plot acreage to total property acreage needed (i.e., 1 Acre of food plot per X Acres of property or the % of the total property acreage to be planted in food plots). There are many variables to consider for each property to determine the amount of food plot acreage, but some basic principles apply to all tracts.  For a very intensive Trophy Management Program we push for 6% to 10% of the property to be planted in HQYR food plots or a whitetail friendly agricultural crop such as alfalfa, soybeans, wheat, peanuts or corn.  Because agricultural crops other than alfalfa are not equal in nutritional value for whitetails to the forage plants I use and recommend for food plots and because farm crops are harvested as soon as they mature.  I only give a farm crop acre half the value of a food plot acre in my formula (i.e., 1 acre farm fields on property would count as 1/2 acre in my ratio of food plot to land size need for each project).
Again, when I say food plot I dont mean a stand of wheat and winter rye thrown out in the fall with some 10-10-10 and then forgotten about after hunting season.  I am referring to very high energy cool season crops like Tecomate’s Max Attract 50/50 T, high protein summer crops like Tecomate Lab Lab Plus or Bar Alfalfa in Tecomate’s Monster MixT and Alfa Extreme T.

Example:

- 1000 Acre Property

- 30 Acre Farm Field in Summer Soybeans and Winter Wheat on the property = 15 acres needed of forage

- We are shooting for 6% of the property in High Quality Planted Forage = 60 Acres of 1 Acre of HQFP for every 16.6 Acres of Land

- With the 15 Acres of forage provided by the farm field in our food plot formula, we need to plant 45 Acres of HQYR food plot to reach our goal.

Originally posted 2010-05-25 22:23:37. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Northern Planting Guide

To give your plants the best chance of success, plant with adequate soil moisture. Typically, early spring and fall planting will be the most successful. You can frost seed or plant in the spring when daytime high temps start to reach 63-65 degrees. Fall plantings should be planted prior to the onset of autumn rains. A good rule of thumb is to make sure your food plots are planted at least 30-45 days prior to the first frost. Clover Plus, Premium Perennial and Maximum are excellent choices for planting in the Northern Zone. For more details on Waterfowl Forage planting in the Northern Zone, please contact BioLogicT.

Note:
Many successful food plot planters mix Maximum and Premium Perennial with their current commodity blends as additional forage and are very pleased with the results. For more information on this practice call 1-866-677-9625.

Transitional Planting Guide

For the Transitional Zone, optimum planting time for Clover Plus and Premium Perennial is early fall. This allows the plants to establish a better root system to survive summer heat. However, both will do very well during an early spring planting, typically 30-40 days prior to the last frost in your area. These varieties provide long-term nutrition for the wildlife on your property. Excellent stands of Maximum can be established with early spring plantings or early fall plantings. Maximum is an excellent choice for over-seeding existing stands of Clover Plus and Premium Perennial. Green Patch Plus and Full Draw exhibit optimum results when planted during early fall. BioMaxxT and Waterfowl Forage should be planted when soybeans are planted locally.

Note:
Many successful food plot planters mix Maximum and Premium Perennial with their current commodity blends as additional forage and are very pleased with the results. For more information on this practice call 1-866-677-9625.

Southern Planting Guide

For the Southern Zone, Clover Plus and Premium Perennial should ideally be planted during early fall. These varieties can be planted in early spring but should be avoided for late spring plantings due to limited root growth before hot, dry conditions. Maximum is excellent for over-seeding into existing Clover Plus and Premium Perennial plots in early fall or for stand-alone plots in the early fall. BioMaxxT is the product of choice for late spring and early summer plantings in the Southern Zone. Waterfowl Forage should only be planted in the late spring or early summer in this zone. Our central and southern Texas customers have great results planting Premium Perennial in the fall. It provides excellent fall, spring and early summer growth, but should be replanted the following fall.

Note:
Many successful food plot planters mix Maximum and Premium Perennial with their current commodity blends as additional forage and are very pleased with the results. For more information on this practice call 1-866-677-9625.

Good Luck and Remember “You Won’t Get’em if You Don’t Stick’em“©

For other Bowhunting Tips in the Archery Blog or Archery Shop check out some of these Archery Podcasts and other articles on Turkey Hunting.   If you need any Archery Equipment or Bowhunting Equipment check out our Archery Shop.

Originally posted 2010-04-19 14:49:12. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Research and innovation lead to guaranteed product success.
In the 90′s Tecomate Seed was a Texas brand. The company evolved as a result of years of hard work, research and trophy whitetail bucks on the famed Tecomate Ranch. After scientifically proving what food plots could do for increasing the quantity and the quality of wildlife on this property, the need to share this knowledge and experience with others birthed Tecomate Seed (1993). Tecomate then hired Wildlife Biologist Ryan Foster to give sound advice to professional wildlife managers throughout the region. The Tecomate trophies and food plot system quickly gained national attention. The launch of Tecomate as a national brand came with a partnership from seed supplier Barenbrug USA.

Regional products offer best results.
Tecomate Seed makes product recommendations based specifically on the region where they are best adapted (see planting zone map below). Recognizing that areas of the country differ in environmental conditions is only one piece of the puzzle. Regional Tecomate agronomists are an integral part of the sales effort.

The Tecomate Zone Map is a valuable tool when planning food plots. Tecomate recommendations are based on extensive research and quantified results in
specific zones. Further, each recommended product is regionally blended using seeds that are best suited for the climate and rainfall in that area.

PRIMARY RECOMMENDATIONS refer to the best plot choices to establish a year-round nutritional program and should be used on the bulk of available acreage.

PLANT KEY
* = Summer Annual
** = Perennial
*** = Winter Annual

Good Luck and Remember “You Won’t Get’em if You Don’t Stick’em“©

For other Bowhunting Tips in the Archery Blog or Archery Shop check out some of these Archery Podcasts and other articles on Turkey Hunting.   If you need any Archery Equipment or Bowhunting Equipment check out our Archery Shop.

Originally posted 2010-04-19 14:40:59. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Contributor to StickemArchery.com

I often get questions about what type of fertilizer  to use on a  food plot.  This is a very common question but requires an indirect answer.  In order to know what fertilizer blend you need to apply for your plots and crops you MUST know what is missing in the soil.  The direct answer to the question can be found by taking SOIL SAMPLES! The information you will obtain from a soil sample will ensure you get the correct type and amounts of fertilizers for your plots.  You need to turn to your County Agricultural Extension Agency for assistance with this process. http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/.

Below are some steps that you can follow in order to get a proper Soil Sample.  This is a step that is often over looked but can make the difference in having a good yield vs. a poor yield.  If you are going to invest  “sweat” and “financial” equity in your food plot then this is an essential step  to make sure you get the most out of your investment. .

1. Pull several divots (samples) across your food plot – less for small plots and more for large plots.  Samples should be 6-8 inches deep.  (Ensure you use a sterile soil probe tool or shovel to obtain the sample).  Pull samples from across the plot in an evenly distributed manner.

2. Put the samples in a clean or sterile bucket and then mix together

3. Put the Soil Samples in the provided soil bag and fill out the information required.  Use a numbering system for the plots such as 1 through 10 or A to J. Do not put the name of the food plot, i.e. “Swamp Plot” or “Drop Tine Plot”.  Keep a record of what plot each number represents.

4. Some samples ask for a crop.  Because this is an agricultural service for farm crops you should go with a crop similar to what you are planting for wildlife, i.e. for lablab write soybeans on the bag or box.

5. Submit the samples (bags or boxes) to the County Extension Office where you got them  from.  Sample analysis generally costs from $5 to $10 per sample.  The soil report will be sent to you in a week or two.

6. The report will indicate the soil PH.  This is VERY important, even more so than fertilizer because if the soil is acidic (PH level of 4 – 5) the fertilizer you use will be bound up in the soil and plants can’t utilize it leading to a weak crop and wasted money on fertilizer.  Evaluate the PH levels (Acidic or Alkaline).  You want to keep the PH level between 6.5 and 7.5, which is considered “neutral”.  Applying lime will raise the PH levels and your soil samples will tell you how much lime needs to be applied in tons/acre.  1 – 2 tons is not uncommon for acidic soils.

7. Now the answer: soil sample report fertilizer recommendations will focus on Nitrogen (N), Phosphate (P) and Potash (K).  These are the nutrients that make up the formula for different fertilizer blends, i.e. 10-10-10.  The nutrient levels in the soil will be indicated (low, medium, high) in the report and the pounds per acre needed for each will also be provided.  Your local Co-op or fertilizer dealer can help you choose the appropriate fertilizer blend and rate for your crop based on the soil sample report.

Originally posted 2010-01-13 20:55:29. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Contributor to StickemArchery.com

Choose LEVEL 1 if you have limited equipment and need suggestions on how to proceed. Ideally, you have an ATV or garden tractor with a small disk, some kind of seed/fertilizer spreader and a pump up sprayer. We would recommend that you find a tractor for hire to disk unbroken ground. That way, you can keep costs down yet dramatically increase your chances for success. With limited equipment your first few plots might not be award winners but you CAN STILL BE SUCCESSFUL in attracting and holding deer on your hunting property.

The following ‘keys to success’ are formulated with a ‘LEVEL 1′ criteria in mind. If you have access to a tractor and implements or a Plotmaster or other planting machine, we suggest you also review the information in LEVEL 2.

1) Soil Preparation and Lime
2) Planting
3) Fertilizer
4) Repellents
5) Herbicides

1. Soil Preparation and Lime

INFORMATION YOU’LL NEVER GET ANY OTHER WAY
This is an excellent time to find out more about your food plot with a soil sample.

Lots of food plots are planted each year without benefit of a soil sample, but it is very simple and inexpensive and can make a big difference in your plot. Collect the samples according to the directions from your county agent, deliver it for analysis (either to the office or by one of the many mail-in services, check the internet) and by the time your vegetation has died you’ll know what to do next.

Chances are good that you’ll need lime. Most soil needs lime to adjust the pH to 6.5 to 6.8 which is best for growing food plots. Find out Why Lime is Important. The best solution is to go ahead and try to break the ground up now that your plot is cleared of growing vegetatio. Then have the lime delivered according to the ‘tons per acre’ information on your soil test results and then disk it into the ground more as you do your final preparations. The soil test is loaded with info on exactly what you need to do to have the soil in the best possible shape for your plot. Do as much of it as you can.

LOOKS AREN’T EVERYTHING:

Many first year fields are not the most attractive food plots when you’re working with limited equipment. You may have clumps of dead weeds sticking up, small tree stumps you have to plow around, rocks too big to move ..don’t worry. This is not a beauty contest, your trying to grow something for deer that’s good for them and good for you and you’re doing the best you can with the equipment at hand.

Soil preparation is an important part of any successful food plot, but don’t be discouraged if you can’t achieve the ‘firm, level seed bed’ mentioned so often on planting instructions (remember, this is LEVEL 1). Certainly, the better the seed bed the better the chance for a successful plot, but don’t be intimidated into giving up just because you don’t have access to a hefty tractor and a variety of implements. The key is to break up the soil to the point where each seed can be surrounded in enough moist earth to germinate, so whether you’re using a small ATV disk, a garden tractor or pulling a disk behind a 4 X 4 truck (yes we’ve seen it done), keep going until the soil contains as few chunks and clods as possible. A few bumps and lumps won’t hurt either (as long as the soil feels ‘fluffy’) although seed may ‘pool’ in these areas and grow in a tight cluster. Good smoothing can be accomplished with nothing more than a length of chain link fence with a couple of concrete blocks on top pulled behind an ATV.
Other tips:

• Plant when soil moisture is adequate. Don’t plant and hope it will rain if you are experiencing drought conditions. Wait for rain, then plant.
• Do your homework ahead of time and you’ll have a much higher level of success.
• Have your soil tested
• Fertilize according to the soil test.
• Lime if needed to correct the pH.
• Prepare a good, weed free seed bed
• Plant into adequate moisture with inoculated seed if needed.
• Control weeds.

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2. Food Plot Planting

OK. You’ve killed the original weeds and limed according to the soil report and the plot your going to plant (now would be a good time to review a guide to plants to know more about what to plant and which category your plant is in). At LEVEL 1 you’ll have a variety of ‘unprofessional’ options. You can 1) put a buddy on the back of the ATV with an open bag of seed and have him spread as evenly as possible. 2) Invest in a manual seeder that is carried over your shoulder and walk the field as you spread the seed (or put this guy on the back of the ATV) 3) Use a motor powered ATV spreader which works great but is hard to control as far as seeding rate goes.

4,840 square yards equals an acre so walk the length by the width of your field and count steps. Multiply length by width for estimated square yards and roughly calculate the size of your field. If it’s 2,420 square yards, you have about a half acre. If your seed covers an acre, use half a bag and spread the seed (by whatever method above) very thin and go back and forth by length then back and forth by width until all the seed is distributed.
DO NOT COVER THE SEED AT THIS TIME. We are going to add fertilizer and then cover the seed and fertilizer at the same time.

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3. Food Plot Fertilizer

Fertilizer is an important part of your success but fortunately, if you’ve gotten the soil report as we suggested, you’ll already know how much fertilizer you need (and the formula i. e. 10-10-10) for the acreage you’re planting. If you don’t have this information, the bag of seed will recommend a rate as a standard amount. Remember, we don’t have the benefit of knowing the make-up of your soil. If all else fails, ask a farmer in the area how much fertilizer he would put on a particular plot. Chances are good his guess will be very close. Add fertilizer the same way you added seed, calculate the amount, set your spreader thin and criss-cross until it’s all spread. Do this before you cover the seed.

Cover the seed according to the recommended depth on the bag. If you’re limited to an ATV disk you’ll have to be creative. If you’re planting large seeds (like Lablab) you’ll need to set your disk to push at least an inch of soil over the beans. If you’re planting clover or a brassicas with very small seed, just barely tickle the soil with the disk or simply drive around the field over and over until the seed is packed into the surface by the tread of the ATV tires. Be creative.

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4. Food Plot Repellents

Why repel what you’re trying to attract’ Interesting question and a very big subject we’re going to try to keep simple. Some crops, particularly big seeded beans, peas and legumes are so attractive to deer that they’ll be visiting your plot before the young plants have had time to establish themselves. Cereal grains and brassicas will usually be OK with this early pressure so we’re talking mainly about products like Lablab and other big seeded legumes. Many Tecomate legumes are blended with other plants to help ‘screen’ the young beans, but depending on the number of deer in your area, you may still need to use some kind of repellent as the plot begins to grow.

There are two basic ways to keep deer off of a young plot. Fence them out (usually electric), which is relatively expensive, or use a commercially available repellent. At ‘LEVEL 1′, with limited resources and equipment, you’re probably better off with one of many liquid concentrates you can find on the internet. Purchase and apply as directed and remember that rain will reduce its effectiveness.

If you have a high population of deer and limited food sources available, you’ll have your hands full keeping deer off your young plots. It’s a good idea in these situations to overseed your plot (plant more than we recommended) and plant as many plots as you can to spread the feeding pressure out.

Early pressure will kill young beans and Peas. These plants are called ‘dicotyledons’ and if the growing tip is nipped out by deer, the plant will die. Considering all the work you’ve done to this point, don’t stop short of using a repellent to give your plot the best possible chance.

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5. Food Plot Herbicides

Herbicides are used to selectively kill unwanted weeds that try to establish themselves in your food plot. By killing unwanted vegetation, you make more of the fertilizer nutrients available for the food plot plant. You probably know the herbicide ‘Round Up’ as one that kills most of what it touches in your landscape, but there are other selective herbicides that kill only particular categories of plants and they can be used successfully in your food plots without hurting your plantings. Obviously it’s important to do your homework on this subject to avoid destroying your plot. Some crops will not tolerate an herbicide so read the label carefully before proceeding.

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Originally posted 2009-12-29 15:14:21. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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The main difference in the three is their cold-tolerance.

• Rye is the most cold-tolerant of the three cereal grains, wheat is in the middle, and oats are generally the least cold-tolerant.
• All three are suitable for fall-planted crops in the South, but because it is less cold-tolerant, oats are not a good choice for fall plantings in the North or Canada (although oats can be spring-sown in April in these areas).
• Each of the three cereal grains is available in a number of varieties with different attributes; check with your local agricultural extension agent for advice on the best varieties for your region.

Rye, wheat and oats are good candidates for blending with other crops, especially legumes like winter peas and perennial clovers. The photo above shows a fall-planted blend of oats, ladino clover and chicory taken the spring after planting; the clover and chicory are now productive, while the oats have matured and produced seeds. A number of commercially available blends include cereal grains and legumes.

We will be following these tips this year on our North Georgia hunting property.  While the property we are hunting is not large (less than 100 acres) we are going to provide a number of food sources/varieties to pull deer in.  We focused on peas and beans during the summer months and will be transitioning to these types of seeds for fall and winter.  For several suggested blends and seeding rates, see the mixtures chapter of “Quality Food Plots,” available from QDMA.  For more information on purchasing food plot seeds visit StickemArchery.com.

Originally posted 2011-09-14 16:12:52. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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On top of hitting some of the areas of the food plot with Lab Lab Plus with some weed killer we added some additional fertilizer based on our soil sample.  One of the key ingredients was Nitrogen and we poured it to the plots.  We have been blessed to have some rain right after we planted the plots and a few days of sunshine to help with the weed killer.  Then we got some rain today and that should help to kick the seed growth into high gear.  Once the Lab Lab Plus gets to a certain height it will overtake the weeds and create a canopy that will make it hard for the weeds to grow.

We are seeing some deer movement within the food plot that is a positive sign but we are not seeing a great deal of grazing yet.  This leads me to the notion that I do not need to put up the plot saver system to keep the deer out until the plant can get established.  I am confident that once the plants get some additional nutrients and rain they should kick off…..One of the areas of concern were some early emergence of weeds in the food plot.  While we did spray the field prior to planting this pasture has been neglected for many years with over growth of weeds and other grasses.  I did spray the heavier areas with round up to keep the weeds at bay until the plants get tall enough to shadow out the weeds or undergrowth.

Pictures of Food Plot on – Week 3

Lab Lab Plus Food Plot # 1

Lab Lab Plus Food Plot # 2

Iron Clay Peas Food Plot

Follow Food Plot – Week 5

We have good news and bad news.  The good news is that we are seeing some accelerated growth since we applied more nutrients a few weeks ago and recent rain fall.  The bad news is the deer have moved in more quickly than anticipated.  They are beginning to hit the plants hard by nipping off the top (most tendure) part of the plant.  We are also seeing some of the areas where there is limited seed growth, which could be due to a number of factors.  So what do we do from here.  I am going to put up a browse enclosure to see just how much the deer are eating vs. the plant growth.  Once we have done this we are going to fill in some of the bar spots with a hand tiller and add some additional seed and then rake it in.

Additionally, we are going to put out a corn feeder to help take some of the pressure off of the food plot until the plants get to a point where heavy grazing will not limit their potential.  Overall, we are pleased to see the increased sign and movement into the food plot as this reinforces the need for a high quality food source in this area.  The reality may be that the soil is so far out of whack that it may take several rotations of disking, lime, fertilizer, disking, weed killer….. Worst case is we may not have quit the yield we desired for a summer plot.  The deer now know where there is food and we will follow this up in September/October with Fall & Winter food plot seeds to create year round high quality food source.

Pictures from Food Plot- Week 5

Lab Lab Plus Food Plot # 2

Iron Clay Peas Food Plot

Lab Lab Plus Food Plot # 1

Originally posted 2011-07-06 11:13:42. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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This property has deer, cover, water but not any quality food source.  This year Sean and I decided to plant a 5 acre area with high quality food plot seed.  We planted Tecomate Lab Lab Plus and Deer Peas Plus as a summer plot that will be high in Protien and will be attractive for the first part of bow season when the peas start to pod out.  We decided to really take the time to do these plots the right way.

Below are some of the steps we have taken:

1. Obtained a Soil Sample and sent it to University of Georgia.  The results were pH of 5.2 with need for lime to raise our pH to above 6.0.

2. Created good bed foundation by disking, weed killing, and disking again

3. Added needed Lime and nutrients and disked into the plot bed

4. Added Tecomate Seed with Seeder to ensure we did not waste and got appropriate coverage

5. Raked the seed into the bed based on Seed Manuf. recommendations

6. Timed around the rain the best we could (luckily got rain within 5 days of planting)

Other steps that we will take:

1. Once the seed starts to come up we will use  Plot Saver System to keep the deer off until the plant has a chance to establish.  Once the plant has established then it can withstand heavy grazing by deer.

2. Apply some additional fertilizer to accelerate the growth

In late September and early October we will mow and prepare the bed again for November to January food source.  During that time we will plant a combination of clover, and rye that will be higher in carbohydrates to provide more energy for the deer herd.

Follow our progress to see how things turn out and we will provide pictures along the way of some of the deer that will be on our hit list.  We are excited that with this year round nutrition we will bring deer in from all around that will mean more bucks to watch.

Originally posted 2011-06-21 00:10:29. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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By Rans Thomas

The Wildlife & Land Enhancement Company

Thomas Resources W&LE Inc.

As hunters we hear about the importance of providing high quality nutrition to deer herds to maximize both antler development and body size.    No matter if you hunt 20 acres or 2,000 acres there are strategies you can implement to improve your current food plots. As a fellow bow hunter I know the importance of being even more strategic with the type and placement of our food plots to maximize that opportunity to get a shot on a mature animal.  I have put together some of the more frequent questions and answers that I hope will help you obtain better results with your current food plots.

Question:

How big does your food plot need to be in relation to the total amount of property you hunt?

Answer:
To have any positive impact on your herd with food plots a minimum of 1% of the property must be devoted to HIGH QUALITY & YEAR ROUND (HQYR) food plots, but I prefer much more for serious management.  To determine the acreage of food plot for a property I determine the ratio of food plot acreage to total property acreage needed ( i.e., 1 Acre of food plot per X Acres of property or the percentage of the total property acreage to be planted in food plots).  There are many variables to consider for each property to determine the amount of food plot acreage, but some basic principals apply to all tracts.  For a very intensive Trophy Management Program we push for 6% to 10% of the property to be planted in HQYR food plot and/or a whitetail friendly agricultural crop such as alfalfa, soybeans, wheat, peanuts or corn.  Because agricultural crops other than alfalfa are not equal in nutritional value for whitetails to the forage plants I use and recommend for food plots and because farm crops are harvested as soon as they mature, I only give a farm crop acre half the value of a food plot acre in my formula (i.e., 1 acre of farm fields on a property would count as a ½ acre in my ratio of food plot to land size needed for each project).

Again, when I say food plot I don’t mean a stand of wheat and winter rye thrown out in the fall with some 10-10-10 and then forgotten about after hunting season.  I’m referring to very high energy cool season crops like Tecomate’s Max Attract 50/50™, high protein summer crops like Tecomate’s Lablab and ebony pea, or high quality perennial crops (grows year round) like white clovers, Puna chicory, or Bar alfalfa in Tecomate’s Monster Mix™ and Alfa Extreme™.

Example:

-  1000 Acre property

-  30 Acre farm field in summer soybeans &  winter wheat on the property = 15 Acres of needed forage

-  We are shooting for 6% of the property in high quality planted forage = 60 Acres or 1 Acre of High Quality Food Plot (HQFP) for every 16.6 Acres of land.

-  With the 15 acres of forage provided by the farm field in our food plot formula we need to plant 45 Acres of High Quality Year Round Food Plot (HQYR) food plot to reach our goal

Question:

What is the difference between a “hunting strategy” vs. “attracting strategy” for a food plot?

Answer:
Both share one major feature and that is ATTRACTION!  A “hunting” plot is one that you want to place a stand over and literally hunt the field.  An “attraction” plot is one that you don’t hunt over but you hunt nearby on trails the deer are using to get to the field or somewhere between multiple attraction plots, which is my favorite location.  For either purpose I prefer these plots to be relatively smaller at ½ – 2 Acres and located near bedding areas or major travel corridors.

I know a little secret that I’m now going to share with you bow hunters that hunt over or around small attraction plots.  As you have probably noticed these plots are often small in size and they tend to get really banged up by deer browse before the peak of rut when you really want to be hunting these plots.  Also, the key is ATTRACTION!  I know how to remedy the browse problem and make that plot the BEST thing going in the area!  It’s the Plot D-Fence System™ (PDFS). I developed the PDFS to manage deer browse on food plots.  This is not a deterrent like electric fence or odor strips but is total physical exclusion.  Plant your fall attraction crop and then install the PDFS to fence it in.  You leave the fence down for a few weeks and allow the plot to establish, thicken, and peak in nutrients.  A few days before you are ready to hunt the field you literally roll up the fence by folding it in half vertically lifting the bottom to the top so deer can enter.  Then my friend you will be hunting over the most attractive food plot possible, even more so than your neighbors who may be planting the same crops.

Originally posted 2009-12-04 20:40:16. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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